Oval Engagement Rings

In shortOval engagement rings use an elongated brilliant-cut stone that looks larger face-up than a round of the same carat weight and makes the finger look longer. Most buyers prefer a length-to-width ratio between about 1.30 and 1.50. Check photos or video for a strong "bow-tie", a dark band across the middle, before buying.

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Ovals combine much of a round’s brilliance with an elongated outline, which is why they have become one of the most requested shapes. Their main quirk is variability: two ovals of the same weight can look quite different.

Ratio guide

Length-to-width ratio How it looks
Under 1.30 Plump, close to round
1.30 to 1.50 Classic, balanced oval
Over 1.50 Slim and elongated, close to a marquise feel

Settings that suit ovals

Solitaires with four or six prongs keep the outline clean. A thin halo exaggerates length. Pear side stones make a graceful three stone ring. For the head-to-head comparison with the round brilliant, read oval vs round engagement rings.

Frequently asked questions

What is the bow-tie effect in oval diamonds?

A bow-tie is a darker area shaped like a bow tie across the width of an oval, caused by how light leaks through the stone's facets. Almost all ovals have some; the goal is one that is faint, not dominant.

Should an oval be set north-south or east-west?

North-south, lengthwise along the finger, is traditional and lengthens the hand. East-west, across the finger, is a more unusual, modern look and sits lower to the band.

See also